Un cult senza tempo della moda. I jeans rappresentano gli indumenti più indossati di sempre, sia per la loro estrema praticità e sia per il loro aspetto estetico. Le innumerevoli varianti di questi pantaloni consentono un impiego per tutte le occasioni ed in tutte le stagioni. L’utilizzo e la creazione del denim, il tessuto di cotone e lino con cui vengono confezionati i pantaloni in taglio jeans, hanno però comportato gravi danni all’ecosistema ed alla salute umana.
La produzione di jeans è infatti sempre stata considerata tra le attività maggiormente dannose per l’ambiente da un lato per la coltivazione del cotone e dall’altro per la produzione dei pantaloni. Il cotone, il materiale principale con cui viene prodotto il denim, ha necessitato di un’ingente quantità di acqua. La lavorazione, invece, ha comportato vari passaggi finalizzati a trasformare il cotone in grezzo a quello tipico dei jeans. Il filo del tessuto trattato con una tinta indaco, la tipica tonalità di blu dei jeans, è stata realizzata tramite una composizione di prodotti chimici sciolti in grandi quantità di acqua.
Come possono essere prodotti i jeans riducendo l’impatto ambientale
Negli ultimi anni, però, molte industrie hanno cercato di invertire la tendenza rivoluzionando le tecniche produttive dei jeans nel rispetto della salute ambientale. Alcune industrie hanno deciso di utilizzare varianti di cotone da trattare con tinture eco-friendly di tipo vegetale o anche schiume speciali che non prevedono l’impiego di acqua.
Per colorare il denim vengono utilizzati dei metodi naturali come il Chitosano oppure la tintura d’azoto che è in grado di concentrare la colorazione indaco senza l’utilizzo di sostanze industriali. Per le finiture dei jeans, il lavaggio con la pietra pomice viene sostituito con una metodica bio che utilizza enzimi come la cellulasi oppure una tecnologia all’ozono mediante l’azione di laccasi. Per ottenere un basso impatto ambientale, inoltre, è stato anche necessario ridurre l’utilizzo dei pesticidi e diminuire i quantitativi di acqua nelle coltivazioni di cotone.
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